This is in response to a question that came up in the Pack Seminar post about packing for the first time.
It is possible that a seminar of this type be the last step in getting ready for your first pack trip, however, it could also be the first step in learning what it takes to pack in the backcountry. Packing is a process that must be built up to. In my opinion, the most important of all is restraining your horses overnight! I can not stress this enough, as this seems to be the single most underestimated part of new people to packing. Here are some steps/questions that might help you understand this topic a little more.
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The first step would be to try an overnighter with your horse in stables at or near where you will be sleeping. A weekend in Estats Park riding in Rocky Mountain National Park while stabling your horses at the Double EZ for example. This is a great start, and will get your horses accustomed to being in a strange area with other horses they don’t know and without you to comfort them. This alone can be stressful for some. (horses & owners alike)
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Now it is time to pick a restraining method. In the backcountry you need to restrain your horse while at camp and for the night. There are many different methods and I would practice these at home to find what works best for you on the trail. Here are 3 that I use.
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Portable Electric Corral- this is a good choice for overnighters where you’ll be camping without packing in. A Portable Electric Corral kit typically contains a battery operated charger, hot wire, plastic/resin posts (4ft), ground rod, and I use corners stakes/guides for strength. It can be used for packing, but they are usually bulky and heavy and just not very practical. However, I use this methods exclusively when I go out with my Truck/Camper and I feel it is the safest method of restraining my horses.
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Picketing or Picket Line - Picketing can provide you with a safe, easy way to graze your stock in the backcountry, but a lot of outfitters use this for overnight as well. A Picket Line Kit is comprised of a picket stake, a single picket hobble and a 30′ rope to attach the two. I will typically picket my horse when I am at camp, but I do not currently use a hobble, I have a double latch snap and I hook a manty rope to their halter. Again, for your safety and the safety and comfort of your stock in the backcountry, accustom your horses or mules to the horse picket line at home first.
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Highline - A Highline is a length of rope strung between two trees as high up as I can get it from which (in my case, anyway) hang Knot Eliminators to which I attach each horse’s lead rope. The animals can then stand comfortably next to each other or move around in circles without getting tangled up. If I am able to keep an eye on them, I can even let them have enough lead rope to lie down or roll. Horses are typically much more comfortable on a highline than tied to a tree or a hitching rail. After a days grazing on the picket line I will use the highline to put my horse to bed for the night.
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Important Note: Throughout Colorado, there are different rulesin regards to picketing & highlining. Make sure you understand these rules, the methods that are allowed to be used in the area you will be staying, closeness to camp & water, and the requirements of moving your stock each night.
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Once you have accomplished this a and feel that you and your horse are comfortable overnight, then start working on the actual “packing” part. Start by seeing if you can just get a pack saddle on your horse. Pony him/her on a short trail ride without bags to make sure that you and your horse can pony another horse and to let the ponied horse get used to the pack saddle and especially the breeching (provided you have one). -
After success here, load up your panniers with bulky items. I typically use old tractor tires as they are big, but not too heavy, and take them back to the woods. Snake through the trees deliberately rubbing the saddlebags against trees and bushes. Your stock will need to get used to having dead weight, needing a wider path, and the extra noise that accompanies pack gear. A spooky or nervous horse will typically fall apart here.
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Onto adding dead weight: I like starting here with 50lb bags of feed in each pannier. 100 pounds is a good starting weight for them to get used to.
Passing these test with a calm level headed horse is just the beginning; these are just “some” of the things to think about. This is NOT all inclusive and I did not cover fitting of the saddle and all that, but, this should give you some idea of how I go about staring a horse for packing. I would suggest getting a couple of the books on packing out there; there are many that are very good. They have great information, but the best thing I like is they are full of lists! Lists for meals, horse care, people care and packing equipment.

Practicing with 50# bags of grain will test your balancing abilities!





Thank you for such an extensive reply. I will start trying these things out. I bought a clipping system at the Rocky Mountain Horse Expo. I can use them for a highline and many other uses. I look forward to learning more. My horses are extremely good trail horses. They are very willing and have great steady tempermants. Hopefully, they will do well.
Just wanted to say we cannot wait for this clinic. My husband and I have 5 mules and are learning how to pack. This will be a great opportunity for us to learn more with people we know.
Jennifer and Darek Marino are our neighbors, here in Colorado Springs. They are GREAT people.
Something to add as well…you are not just training the pack horse but your mount too. Yesterday I had one of my mares out with my gelding carrying the pack. This mare has never bucked or kicked with myself or another rider over the past 3 years I have owned her.
Apparently the rope slipped under her tail, she didn’t like my gelding following so close, or maybe he bit at her but she went into a bucking fit. This is a good reason not to tie the lead rope of the pack animal. I was able to release my pack animal and get my mount back under control. Now imagine if that would have happened on a narrow mountain trail…
Great website!
WHAT KIND OF ROPE DO I NEED FOR THE HIGH LINE AND HOW LONG. ALSO WHERE DO I GET THE KNOT ELIMINATORS AND HOW DO I ATTACH THESE. MY HORSES HAVE USED A HIGHLINE BEFORE BUT I AM NOT FAMILIAR WITH IT. PLEASE EXPLAIN FULLY. THANK YOU.
Any 3/8 Climbers Rope will do – and 100 feet is a good length. You want something that will not streatch too much.Home Depot, Big-R and both have them. Big-R will also carry the Knot Eliminators (Sometimes).
However, your best bet is Outfitters Supply (http://www.outfitterssupply.com) and just purchasing their Highline Kit.
http://www.outfitterssupply.com/Four-Horse-Highline-Kit/productinfo/WPHK100
I’m getting mixed messages about leading my pack animals in terms of handling the lead rope. I’ve read a suggestion that the lead of the pack animal be dallied to the saddle horn of the riding horse (seems like a bad idea). I’ve read a suggestion that the lead animal be led at all times by the rider of the saddle horse, even if it nearly pulls the arm right off the rider (also seems like a bad idea). Would a single, untied, loop around the horn for support with the rider holding the loose end, or both sections of, the lead rope be acceptable? There must be some middle-ground between unsafe and a severed arm…
Natalie,
This is a really good question.
I rarely tie a horse to anything, not even a trailer or post if I can help it. I use bailing string on the trailer/post and “if” I tie, I tie to that. This way if there is a blow-up, the string breaks, the pressure is released, and all is well. There are very rare exceptions to this, but a couple…
Even in the trailer (I use a stock trailer) I ties with bailing string.
Each pack saddle has bailing string tied to the back of it and the lead ropes are looped/tied the the string. Same thing, if there is a blow-up or if they get split by a tree, all is well.
So I take that same principle to the lead horse as well.
As a rule I do not dally a horse to my saddle, especially with a full pack string behind me. I use a standard 12ft lead rope and I’ll hold it with my left hand and drape the tag-end over my lap to the right. If I am relaxed (and I usually am), I’ll have it loop over my left leg and under my right leg. I also have a knot in the end so that I have a stopping point should I need it. The key to this setup is knowing your horses (very well) and making sure that they are in an order that “they” are comfortable with. When needed, I’ll use the tag-end to “guide/direct” them as necessary.
There is one exception to this rule; and that is, I have used a single dally wrap when training a horse to cross water. It is “part” of a successful technique that I use, but if I let go of my hands, it slides off effortlessly. But this is a whole nother story.
Hope this helps.